JOKERTILE
The card

How to Read the Card, Without Us Reproducing a Single Hand

The card is a notation system, not a list to memorise. Learn the grammar and next spring you read the new one in an afternoon.

August 14, 20267 MIN READ
On this page
  1. The notation, in one table
  2. The colours: how many suits, not which suits
  3. The one exception: dragons
  4. Soap does two jobs
  5. X and C
  6. Tiles printed close together are still separate tiles
  7. The words in brackets beat everything
  8. Finding your section without reading all of it
  9. What to do with your first card

The card is the part that makes people quit before their second game. Sixty-odd lines of numbers, three colours, a scatter of letters, and everyone else at the table reading it like a menu while you hold it at arm's length.

Here's the thing nobody says out loud: you are not supposed to memorise it. The card is a notation system. Learn what the marks mean — half an hour, once — and you can read any card the League ever prints, including the one that replaces this year's.

What you won't find here

Not a single hand, value or line. The hands and their arrangement are the League's copyrighted work and you need to buy your own current card to play. What follows is the grammar, which belongs to nobody.

The notation, in one table

MarkMeans
1–9That number. Which suit is decided by the colour, not the digit
0Soap — the white dragon, standing in as a zero
FAny flower. All eight are interchangeable
DA dragon. Which one depends on the colour it's printed in
N E W SNorth, east, west, south — one of each. Four separate single tiles, never a group
X / CExposed hand / concealed hand

That's the whole alphabet. Everything else on the card is these marks arranged into patterns, plus a value and sometimes a note in brackets.

The colours: how many suits, not which suits

This is the one almost everybody gets backwards on their first card, and it is worth slowing down for.

Colours never name a suit

A red 4 on the card does not mean a 4 crak. The colours tell you how many different suits the hand needs, and you choose which ones.

Read it like this:

  • All one colour. The whole hand is in a single suit, and you pick which.
  • Two colours. Two different suits. Tiles sharing a colour share a suit.
  • Three colours. All three suits, one per colour.
2 2 2 COLOUR A pick a suit 4 4 4 4 COLOUR A same suit as the 2s 6 6 6 COLOUR B a different suit 10 tiles
A two-colour pattern. The 2s and 4s must match each other; the 6s must be something else. Which suits you use is entirely your choice — and that choice is usually decided by what you were dealt.

So a hand printed in two colours gives you six ways to build it, not one. Beginners who think the colours name suits end up chasing tiles they never needed.

The one exception: dragons

Dragons are the only place on the card where a colour does point at a suit — and it works through a pairing you should commit to memory:

Red goes with craks, green with bams, white — soap — with dots. This pairing is printed on the back of the card, and it is the only colour-to-suit link in the game.

Now the part that trips people:

The dragon is printed…Which means
In the same colour as the rest of the handMatching dragon — it has to be that suit's dragon
In a different colourOpposite dragon — it must not match the other suits

"Opposite dragon" is a real term you'll hear at the table, and it catches people out because it looks like a mistake on the card. It isn't. The different colour is doing exactly what colours always do — telling you the dragon belongs to a different suit from everything around it.

Soap does two jobs

The white dragon is the busiest tile on the card, and the confusion is worth clearing up once.

  • As a dragon, it's the dot suit's matching dragon.
  • As a 0, it's just a zero — and a zero has no suit at all.

Two consequences follow. Soap is a zero only where the card prints a 0, so it isn't a floating zero you can drop into any hand, and it isn't a ten. And because zeroes are suitless, a 0 can be printed in any colour without that colour meaning anything. Read a suit out of it and you're reading a signal that was never there.

X and C

Every line carries one or the other, and it changes how you play the whole hand.

X — exposedC — concealed
Claiming discardsYes, to build groupingsOnly to win outright
Showing tilesPiecemeal, as you goAll at once, when you declare
JokersAllowed in any pung or largerAlso allowed in any pung or larger

That last row surprises people. A concealed hand is not a joker-free hand — it just has to stay hidden until you win. A concealed hand can also take jokers off other players' exposures, same as anybody.

Tiles printed close together are still separate tiles

This one causes more dead hands than any other misreading. Where the card prints something like NEWS, or a year, or a run of digits tucked together, those are separate single tiles. The spacing is layout, not grouping.

What follows from that

No jokers in any of them — jokers only work in three or more identical tiles. And you can't claim a discard to complete one, unless that tile wins you the hand outright. If you do call for it, wait until the tile is actually coming to you before you put anything down: exposing tiles for a claim you don't win is itself a violation, and it kills your hand.

These arrangements have proper names once you meet them — two singles, three singles, a pair and a single, and so on — but the only thing you need at the table is the instinct: tightly printed does not mean grouped.

The words in brackets beat everything

When a note in parentheses seems to contradict the colour-coding, the note wins. It's there precisely because the colours couldn't say it.

And one word deserves its own warning. When a note says something like "pungs of 6s only", the only is restricting which number you may use. It is not saying "no jokers". Jokers are legal in any pung, kong, quint or sextet on the card, note or no note.

Finding your section without reading all of it

Here's the habit that separates people who read the card fast from people who scan it line by line. Don't look for a hand. Look at what you're already holding, and let that send you to a section.

What you're holding after the CharlestonWhere to look first
A cluster of even numbersThe evens section
A cluster of odd numbersThe odds section
Several of the same number, across suitsAny Like Numbers
Numbers that step up — 3s, 4s, 5sConsecutive Runs
3s, 6s and 9sThe 369 section
Winds and dragons, few numbersWinds & Dragons
Strong pairs but nothing tripledSingles & Pairs
Flowers piling upScan for flower-heavy lines across every section

The sections themselves stay broadly the same from year to year, which is why this habit survives the annual reshuffle even though the individual hands don't.

A word on Consecutive Runs

The name misleads every player who's come from another mahjong. A consecutive run is not a sequence of different tiles. It's several groupings of identical tiles whose numbers happen to ascend — pungs and kongs, climbing. There is no chow in this game and this section is not a back door to one.

What to do with your first card

Sit with it for twenty minutes before your first game, and don't try to learn hands. Try to answer these, out loud:

  • How many suits does this line need? (Count the colours.)
  • Can I expose on this line, or does it have to stay hidden? (Find the X or C.)
  • Where are the singles and pairs? (Those are the parts you can't call for.)
  • Does the note in brackets change anything? (It usually does.)

Four questions, any line, any year. That's the whole skill.

Want Reading the card on one page, beside the rack?

Rather not? the one-page cheat sheet prints from its own page, no address needed.

One more click. We have sent you a confirmation email — open it and confirm, and the sheets follow straight after. It takes a second and it is what keeps this list clean.

When you have read it all: the rules workbook, 105 questions with an answer key that cites the rule behind every answer, $19.

Where this comes from

The notation, the colour rule, matching and opposite dragons, the X and C definitions and the treatment of tightly-printed singles follow the American Mah-Jongg Association's published rulebook and Tom Sloper's rules FAQ, which cites the League's own rulebook by page. Both were checked against a third, unconnected teaching source.

No hands, values or card arrangement are reproduced here. Buy your current card from the League — it's the thing you're actually playing.